Category: Technical

We’ve talked about how to convert a Nitro Savage into a “Flux HP”, even with a Center Diff. This article takes us further, that we will convert a whatever version of HPI Savage into an “XL Flux” – with the option to use a Center Diff, as well!

Actually, we don’t have too many choices about how to convert – simply because Everything between the front and the rear bulkheads – is different!

So this makes the work easier: Just look at the above picture and get all the parts in it. Here is a list:

• XL Flux TVPs
• XL Flux Transmission or XL Flux Center Diff Transmission
• XL Flux Motor Plate, Brace, Motor Mount and Spacers
• Twin Slipper Clutch (TSC) and Spur Gear
• Steering Servo Mount Box
• Receiver Box Set
• ESC Mount Box Set
• Bettery Box Set plus Longer Mount
• Center Front Dog Bone/Drive Shaft
• Center Rear Dog Bone – Please continue reading ……

Yes the front and rear shafts are different from other Savages – That’s why we say “everything between front and rear bulkheads is different”! And, the Center Rear Dog Bone/Drive Shaft is even more tricky:

• If you use a “Brake Hub” #109628 like the one below, you can use the stock 142mm rear dogbone for XL5.9 (#86054)

• Otherwise if you use a Cup Joint such as #86082, #86276, or #86322 you need to use the longer 150mm dogbone.

This is because the “Brake Hub” is longer.

That’s it. Get some Screws to bolt them on. Guess you already have Motor and ESC, Pinion Gear, Radio and Servo – Congratulations again! Your XL Flux is ready to roar!

BTW, your Savage is now longer, you want it wider? Change all four drive shaft to the beefy CVD with 15mm extension on each corner, or use the Heavy Duty Wide Axle.

Now, Choose your Brushless Motor for this 1/8 Monster Truck! Click Here.

HPI Savage X Flux V2 2021

HPI Savage 21

HPI Savage 25

HPI Savage X 4.6

HPI Savage XL 5.9

HPI Savage Flux HP

HPI Savage XL Flux

HPI Savage Flux Battery Box

HPI Savage XL Octane

HPI used to sell a kit called “#102534 – SAVAGE FLUX CONVERSION KIT FOR NITRO SAVAGE”. It’s discountinued but we can still find all pieces in that kit on rc4me.us. (And here is our kit with Center Differential & Slipper Clutch Eliminator Spur Gear.)

Let’s start making a list of all these parts (and see how much it would cost):

• Flux TVPs: The TVP Chassis for Savage Flux HP are different from the ones on the nitro Savages, simply because you need to fit motor and esc in between the two plates.

• Motor Plate: This plate is different from the nitro engine plate. It’s actually stretched out of the right side plate to provide space for the brushless motor.

• Motor Mount Brace: These two piece of metal braces are mounted parallel to the TVPs, which is not the same as the ones on nitro Savages.

• Motor Mount Plates: This is for motor diameter 40mm.

• Motor Mount Spacers.

Besides the Metal Spur Gear and Pinion Motor Gear, the above list is about everything you can see between the left and right TVPs.

The 29T Metal Diff Sets and the 9T Bevel Gears are recommended to serious basher but are not essential for the conversion.

But wait, the center gear box for nitro savage is a 2-speed or 3-speed transmission, and can only spin forward – we’d not use that. We recommend to use a Center Differential Transmission, however, you have a cheaper and yet easy option: Use a Idler Gear Set to convert your nitro gearbox into a single speed gear box for electric motor. On the Idler Gear Set page, there is a video showing how to change the gears.

Congratulations! That’s about it for the HPI Savage electric conversion!

Oops, wait, I’ve thrown away the fuel tank but where should I put the Lipo batteries?!

Let’s get this Battery Box Set. It comes with screws and all you need is just bolt those onto the TVPs.

In the HPI Savage Conversion Kit (#102534), a ESC mount is not included. You can get it Here.

If you like the Heavy Duty Dogbones and Diff Shafts included in the HPI Savage Electric Conversion Kit, we also have them on our site.

We will talk about upgrade your brand new Savage Flux with CVDs and Aluminum Parts later.

Thanks for reading. Let us know your thoughts by leaving message.

P.S. Screws!

Since you are converting your nitro Savage, you already have the screws for the TVPs and the Motor Plates/Braces. Now you need these M4x8 screws to mount the motor clamps onto the plate, and then these M4x30mm screws with spacers to fix the motor.

Now, Choose your Brushless Motor for this 1/8 Monster Truck, and Pinion Gear.

Here is a very informative video guide on how to shim the Diff in your HPI Savage Trucks. 

One important reminder should be added to this video: When removing screws on the Diff Set, soldering iron or hot air gun should be used to soften the screw thread lock. 

Below are some links to the parts mentioned in the video:

• Differential Case Washer #86099

• 29T Hard Steel Bevel Gear #102692a

• 9T Differential Bevel Gear #102692b

• WASHER 8x10x0.2mm #z877

• WASHER 10x12x0.2mm #z892

• Alloy Diff Case Set #86827

• 29T Differential Ring Gear Set

We know the stock steering servos on our Savages are way too weak. So when you change it to a High Torque and Fast Speed Water Proof Servo, do you think about more?

The radio box of the HPI Savage has 3 servo slots. It’s really not that difficult to figure out how to add another one.

Besides the 2nd servo, you need another Servo Protection Spring Set, Servo Saver Arm and Linkage, Servo Horn, Pivot Balls. Why don’t we just take one new Steering Set and get the parts we need.

All we need is just the parts on the left.

Let’s bolt it on!

Now let’s plug in and see how it works:

You’ll love it!

1, Vertically mount the shock cylinder, then pull the shaft to the lowest position. Now fill the cylinder full with the shock oil.

2, Slowly pull the shaft up and down several times, then there are bubbles float on top.

3, Wait for about 5-10 minutes! Remove the air bubbles, and again pulling the shaft to lowest, then slowly add oil to full fill the cylinder.

4, Mount the shock bladder/diaphragms in the shock cap.

5, Twist the shock cap onto the cylinder, but do not tighten it completely, leaving about 2 mm of space.

6, Push about half of the shaft into the cylinder, and the oil would flow out from the space of the thread – Now tighten the shock cap.

7, Pull the shaft up and down for several times. Now it should be easy to push the shaft all the way to the top. Otherwise:

    A, If you can not push the shaft to the top end, it means too much oil. Excess oil in the cylinder will form leaks later. Unscrew the cap to approximately 2 mm and repeat the step 6.

    B. If a“buzz”is sounded when pushing the shaft, this is a case that the oil in the cylinder is insufficient. Open the shock cap and add more oil. Repeat steps 2-6.

If the shock has oil added properly, after push the shaft to the top end and release, the shaft should be “pop-up” about half inch. If all shaft pop-up, it must be too much oil, or air bubbles.